- Passar för:
- Beginner, Alpine climbing
- Contains non-textile parts of animal
- Vibram XS Edge
- Sulans tjocklek:
- 4 mm
- Vertical, Slab
- 440 g
- pair size in UK 7
- Medium Foot / Normal Volume
- Pull on loops
Have only used these for about 20 hours, and climb mostly in the gym. So far I haven't noticed much stretching although they have formed nicely around my toes.
I got these for a specific purpose, to be comfortable and not cause pain. My previous shoes where slightly more aggressive in shape (downturn), but due to my age, arthritis might be the reason of my recent big toe pain. I needed a slightly longer and comfortable shoe, so they wouldn't push as much into the end of my big toe.
I first ordered a pair of LA SPORTIVA Finales, which fitted very nicely too. They were stiffer in construction but the toe compartment was slightly lower, pinching my big toe in a vertical direction. The SCARPA - HELIX gave me slightly better vertical space for my big toe (which might be bigger than most). The width of the toe compartment is similar to the Finales, slightly squeezing/focussing my toes together, which is good.
I had tried La Sportiva OxyGyms at my gym, in order to test another shoe. They were wider and had slightly more volume in the toe section. Still suited my needs though.
The SCARPA - HELIX is softer in the construction of the body, than the more robust Finales, which might make them less durable, but they certainly felt comfortable from day 1. I am not going for a super tight fit, and this may be why I don't notice much stretching.
As for sizing of the Helix, as I only wanted a snug fit, I got a pair half a size larger than my street size. My street size is 45, and I got 45.5 in the Helix. One toe is half a size longer than the other, but they have softened enough that I don't notice much of a difference now. Both shoes feel very snug, and I can walk around at the gym for a couple of hours only taking off one shoe from time to time.
For my climbing, 6b-ish, and would probably enjoy a more aggressive shoe, but due to my toe pain, I need something softer and more comfortable.
The rubber: It is stiffer and gives the toe support I need. At first I experienced them being a bit slippery on holds, but either they have softened up or I have learnt to used them better, so I don't experience them slipping as much now.
Only negatives is that they are not as technical as I'd like (but that would cause more pain for me, the trade-off), and due to the thinner construction they might not last as long as the Finales, which definitely felt more robust. I climb mostly in the gym.
- Bra passform
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